The Duchess
Image 1
Image 1 shows Kiera Knightly dressed as the Duchess in the 2008 British drama film directed by Saul Dibb.[1]
At this point in time the stomacher had disappeared as the dress now meets at the centre. Silks would have generally been used as the materials for the dresses during the late 18th century, whereas it appears Kiera’s dress has been made from cotton, linen or possibly a man-made material with a similar appearance.
The shape of the corset used in the film consists of a different shape to that of the typical 18th century style. Image 1 shows an extended corset coming to a point well below the waist. Whereas image 4 shows a straight cut waistline ending around the waistline. Image 3 however does also show a corset with a curved front rather than straight-cut – it is still not extreme as the style of bodice worn by the Duchess in the film.
Something that is consistent between the two is the choice of neckline. Both feature a squared-off neckline with a thin piece of fabric either tucked in or placed over the top of the outer layer. In the 18th century this is likely to have been a thin layer of silk fabric, in the film this could also be the case, however it is possible that fabrics such as chiffon or georgette could have been used depending on the costume budget available.
Referring to both images 1 and 4, the choice of hairstyle as well as hat along with the decoration seems to be consistent between the two mediums. Both consisting of large curls in the hair as well as large hats that feature ostrich feathers and ribbons as decoration.[2]
Sleeve length across all three images appears consistent, featuring an outer sleeve finishing at the bicep, and a petticoat sleeve finishing either at the wrist or the elbow.
Dangerous Beauty
Image 2
Image 2 shows Catherine McCormack as Veronica Franco in the 1998 film ‘Dangerous Beauty’, directed by Marshall Hersovitz.[3]
During this era, a girl the age of Veronica would have three choices of becoming a nun, a wife, or a courtesan. Veronica Franco chose to become a courtesan during 16th century Venice, and image 2 shows Catherine dressed accordingly.
There are a few differences as well as similarities between original 16th century dress as well as Marshalls’ interpretation. The first thing I to come to attention is the sleeves. On original 16th century dress shown by images 5 and 6, the sleeves appear to be fitted to the arm and finish just above the wrist. Whereas in the film Catherine is dressed in a rather extreme puff or bishop sleeve. Another difference between the two is the lack of ‘Stiffened open collar’[4] on the costume in image 2. Both images 5 and 6 are showing this collar as a feature of the dress, however the designer of the film has chosen to exclude this feature – most likely due to what the modern-day audience would consider beautiful as this is what the designer would have wanted the audience to have considered her as.
However, some similarities that remain between the two designs is the square neckline, the colour choices, and the man-style breeches worn under her gown.[5] Women would also wear stocking and gore with stilt-shoes with this outfit – something that is reflected in the film also.
There is also a difference between the choice of decoration on the fabrics in images 2 and 5. Image 5 being much bolder and in the style of a brocade pattern. Whereas image 2 shows a much more simple and delicate pattern and decoration – possibly chosen to make the character herself seem slightly more innocent and harmless than what actually occurred during the 16th century.
[1] Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Duchess_(film) [online]. The Duchess (film), [Last accessed: 13/11/16, at 13.12].
[2] Hennessy, K, (2012), FASHION: the ultimate book of costume and style, page 157.
[3] Hailey, J, (1998), Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118892/ [online]. Dangerous Beauty (1998), [Last accessed 13/11/16, at 13.53].
[4] Hennessy, K, (2012), FASHION: the ultimate book of costume and style, page 98.
[5] Wake, A, (2005), Available: http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/library/drawers.htm [online]. Drawers – Brache or Calze. [Last accessed: 13/11/16, at 13.57]
Jessie Nelson 